Marcel Deiss Grasberg Bergheim 2007 750ml

From inter alia Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Savagnin Rose in a high-altitude, austerely chalky, north-facing site, the Deiss 2007 Grasberg displays hauntingly floral aromas suggestive of rose, gentian, linden, and rowan, along with brown spices that migrate to a palate juicy with fresh apricot and yellow plum, and suffused with marine, sweet-savory, scallop-like mineral richness. Persistently wafting florals follow on a finish that offers a remarkable colloquy with mineral and pit fruit essences. I??m reminded a bit here of a really exotic vintage of Chablis Preuses (like 2006). This, I predict, is going to have exceptional, perhaps 20 year aging potential. I had chance to taste the late-harvested 2008 Grasberg must just as it was beginning to ferment, and the level of complexity and recognizable site character was uncanny.

(WA-Apr 2010)